Pleating at the back creates a neatly controlled slouchiness that’s hidden within the cables: as the other columns on the round are cabled the three pleated sections are pleated in a way that mimics the cabling but pulls the fabric together vertically. Stitches are picked up from the wrong side, several rows below the current round, and are knit together with the live stitches on the needles, the technique is a little awkward but easy to do. Decreases are worked into the cable pattern so that they come together in a point. The silk blend allows patterning like this to be done in such a dark colour, reflecting light to create strong contrast between the prominent and recessed areas of the cables.